Zucchini and Taleggio parmigiana with autumn leaves and salmoriglio sauce


Some friends and I were going to watch a movie at Leicester Square and wanted to try something new around the area. Al Duca popped up favourably as a "bib gourmand" in the Michelin guide so it seemed like a good choice, considering I had never heard of it despite it being fairly close to my office.

Problem was we had dillydallied about where to go for dinner so by the time I called to make a reservation at 3 pm, I was told that they only had one table available at 6.15 pm and that they would need it back by 7.30. Considering the movie was at 8.30 we figured we’d try and eat quickly.

Anyway, when we got there the restaurant was already almost full - surprising given the early hour and that the place was actually tucked in a side street between Piccadilly and Duke of York Square. There was a good mix of well-dressed families with little kids, couples and just groups of friends - in a relaxed and elegant dining room.

As we were already running late, we ordered almost immediately. The manager was very jovial and actually sat down next to my friend, recommending us various specials. When I asked to look at the set menu though, he was rather dismissive, saying “Are you going to finish eating by 7 pm?” which obviously we weren’t going to, before telling us that the pre-theatre dinner for £16.50 for 3 courses was only available between 6 to 7 pm. This I found rather odd, since most places actually state the time as when you must order by rather than when they’re going to kick you out, and since we were going to be kicked out anyway at 7.30pm I thought this was slightly ungracious of them.

Since we were already there we weren’t about to quibble over this – and the set dinner of 3 courses for £24 (you can also have 2 courses for £20 or 4 for £28) seemed to be reasonable anyway so we went ahead and ordered. My crabmeat ravioli (special of the day – £4 supplement – was fresh but not particularly stunning), but my companion’s Parmigiana was apparently very good, as was the poached egg with crusty parmesan, bacon, potatoes and sautee mushrooms. Mains were equally satisfactory – my Veal Milanese was tender while my companions’ main-sized pastas too were tasty.

After we had finished out mains, our friendly Italian waitress cleared our plates and asked us if we wanted dessert, but since it was almost 7.30, we declined despite me being sorely tempted by a pistachio crème brulee.

Strangely enough, the standard of the food, I felt, was about the same as Refettorio, but at a slightly more reasonable price, with the bill coming to £26 pp including service, though admittedly w/o wine/cocktails and only 2 courses.

I’m starting to think that I’m becoming a little jaded (and spoilt), but Al Duca didn’t inspire any feelings either of “We simply have to come back soon!” Pre-theatre seems like good value, but given that many restaurants also do good pre-theatre menus, eg Criterion or Quo Vadis (both Marco Pierre White restaurants incidentally), Al Duca probably excels more as the sort of place to deliver reliably above-average food at a fairly reasonable price for its location (Green Park/Pall Mall) – even proper dinner will hardly break the bank. I can sort of see how it got its "bib gourmand" award, but I can think of a lot more that should be but aren't.

(aside)
Refettorio and Al Duca are not pizzerias, so one can’t really expect very cheap food and pizzas. It’s really more of a trattoria/ristorante. While this is sort of the distinction can be hazy, since it is possible for a trattoria to be more expensive that a ristorante, just as a meal at a brasserie can cost more than that at a bistro, it really just boils down to the complexity/(and ideally finesse) of the food. You tend to have more courses at a ristorante/restaurant (‘restaurant’ in France is usually reserved for haute cuisine) and fewer at a trattoria/bistro (which also have a more informal atmosphere). Pizzerias and brasseries are places that open at all hours and serve food that can be made quickly or prepared in advance – eg pizza, lasagna, raw oysters and steak frites or steak tartare etc.

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Al Duca
4-5 Duke of York Street
London SW1Y 6LA
+44 (0)20 7839 3090
http://www.alduca-restaurant.co.uk
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¶ 2:51 PM